Like central Nice, olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, onions, pulses, fish, and goats cheese are the staple ingredients for most of the dishes in the towns along the Riviera north of Nice. But because of physical isolation before roads were developed, each town has its own variations on regional cooking. You may find more variety in the Nice blend of Italian and Provençal cuisines, but you will also make some exciting and unexpected discoveries beyond Nice. The classic of the French Riviera is bouillabaisse. Fish chowder, right? But what constitutes a true bouillabaisse is still debated and reflected in the variations you'll see along the coast. You'll find it with and without lobster, as well as with and without cheese, onions, sardines, and potatoes. We recommend trying this wonderful dish in all its forms and experiencing the richness of the bountiful land and sea. It's hard to have a bad meal in the French Riviera, but as a rough rule of thumb here as in Nice, restaurants which are tucked away are usually worth a try, especially if they're busy. Stay away from restaurants which are obvious tourist traps where there isn't a local in sight. There are always a few tried and tested favourites. The variety of Provençal food is endless. Here are some restaurants to get you started. La Bourride 5 Rue Capitaine de Frégate Vial Port du Cros-de-Cagnes tel 04-93-31-07-75 With a palm tree inside, this impressive port side restaurant with an impressive menu will be memorable for all the right reasons. The specialities are bouillabaisse and bourride (white fleshed fish only, no shellfish plus aïoli in the bouillon) and they are fantastic. Hervé Kobzi, the chef, provides numerous traditional dishes such as risotto with lobster and carpaccio of St-Jacques. The service is attentive without being heavy. Expect to pay a very worthy € 35-50 per person. Le Moorea Port de Saint-Laurent St-Laurent-du-Var tel 04-93-31-05-05 Shell and sea fish are temptingly on display at this large, but still friendly and attentive, port side restaurant. There is always a good atmosphere at lunch, and in the evening it seems to be a regular haunt of the yacht set. Take your pick of freshly caught oysters, shells, shrimps, lobster, crayfish, and snails. There are pasta and meat dishes if fish is not your thing. They also have a few vegetarian options.