
A hybrid of Italian and French culture has produced the robust and flavourful Niçois cuisine. An abundance of olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, onions, pulses, fish, and goats cheese are the staple ingredients for many of the authentic and traditional dishes.
There's something for every taste bud and every budget. Choose from star-rated gastronomy or cosy bistros. Picnic on market fare specialties like pissaladière (onion and anchovy tart), socca (chickpea flour pancake), pan bagnat (a crusty bun with tuna, salad and olive oil) or salade Niçoise. Rest those shopped out feet in hip restaurants and cocktail bars. Dine alfresco whilst soaking up the atmosphere on the Cours Saleya. Go posh at a port side fish restaurant and marvel at the yachts. Or, simply stumble across whatever takes your fancy from a choice of dozens of restaurants dotted on every winding street of Vieux Nice. And always leave room for Glacier Fenocchio's ice cream.
It's hard to have a bad meal in Nice but as a rough rule of thumb, restaurants which are tucked away are usually worth a try, especially if they're busy. Stay away from restaurants which are obvious tourist traps where there isn't a local in sight. There are always a few tried and tested favourites.
If you are interested in the local cuisine and would like to attend a cookery class and market tour in the Old Town, then please take a look at Rosa Jackson's Les Petits Farcis. The classes are designed for small groups of food lovers and can be tailored to include a favourite local dish or ingredient.
Jouni
60, bd Franck Pilatte
tel 04-97-08-14-80
This Michelin-starred restaurant serves local cuisine and the menu changes everyday depending on the best offerings available. A sample menu can include pan-fried foie gras with peaches, roasted pigeon casserole, and soup with dried fruit. Three course between € 55-80, or lunch menu € 30.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.
L'Ane Rouge
7 quai des Deux-Emmanuel
tel 04-93-89-49-63
Stroll down and admire the stunning array of yachts in port before dining on sea bass on a bed of fresh asparagus, turbot with salmon eggs, or fresh lobster cooked in multiple ways. It's an upscale restaurant, but oozes class and sophistication that has earned a Michelin star. Three courses € 55-88. Closed Wednesday.
La Petite Maison
Rue Saint-Françios-de-Paule
tel 04-93-85-71-53
This restaurant is popular with the rich and famous and is renowned for its refined but animated atmosphere and excellent food which includes fresh shrimp salad and scrambled eggs with truffles. However, you will need to book well ahead and expect to pay for the privilege of getting a table. Closed Sunday.
La Mérenda
Rue Raoul Bosio (ex 4 Rue Terrasse)
An extremely popular locals' restaurant with no airs and graces. The menu, prepared by the Négresco's Chantecler former head chef, Dominic Le Stanc, can be found scribbled on a blackboard inside and out. Here you'll find fantastic local dishes such as chitterling sausages, courgette fritters, Niçois black pudding, and beef stew. The only way to pay for your food here is good old fashioned cash. A la carte only, approximately € 12 a dish. Closed Saturday & Sunday.
L'Univers-Christian Plumail
54 Boulevard Jean-Jaurès
tel 04-93-62-32-22
Another Michelin-starred restaurant which dishes up contemporary French cuisine and sumptuous seafood including sauteed langoustines with fresh coriander. The decor of canvasses and modern sculpture add to the plush dining experience. Three courses from € 42. Closed Sunday.
Boccaccio
7 Rue Masséna (pedestrian area)
tel 04-93-87-71-76
Its reputation as one of the best fish restaurants around is well deserved. The decor is an imaginative fantasy of dining aboard an old ship. It's a must-go for fish fanatics since they serve oysters, shrimps, lobsters, all sorts of freshly caught fish, and cook them multiple ways. There are also excellent Italian dishes and perfect paella. Three courses between € 37-84per person. Open daily.
Le Tire Bouchon
Rue de la Préfecture
tel 04-93-92-68-47
Great friendly staff, this cosy romantic bistro style restaurant with two dining rooms and outside dining front and back packs in locals and tourists alike. The menu is weighted towards rich dishes from south-western France, including cassoulet and scallops in white wine sauce plus more adventurous options such as lamb and apricot tajine. The desserts and dessert wine are plentiful and the scarlet decor and rustic feel adds to its romantic charm. Three course set menu from € 29 per person. Open daily.
Chez Juliette
Rue Rossetti
tel 04-93-92-68-47
Serves traditional French food in a cosy setting inside, or in the atmospheric outside setting of Place Rossetti. The lamb is a firm favourite, as are the chocolate-coated pears for dessert. Three courses from € 30, or set menu from € 18. Open daily.
Caffé Bianco
Rue Chavain
tel 04-93-13-45-12
A fairly new bistro where the presentation of the dishes leaves you feeling you should be paying considerably more. An interesting and varied menu with friendly charming service. Typical French cuisine, but with a contemporary twist. Three course menu from € 22 per person. Closed Monday.
Socca Lou Pilha Leva
10 Rue du Collet (on the corner of Rue Centrale)
The cheapest meal in town and great if you're with children. It's self-service so the kids can pick what they want for themselves. It serves regional fare including the Niçois socca chickpea pancake, which often is one of the best local dishes for younger palates. Also on the menu are petit farcis, Niçois salads, fish fritters, pizza, torte, and pasta. Dishes from € 2-8.
Oliviera
8 Bis Rue du Collet
tel 04-93-13-06-45
A unique shop where you can sample a varied selection of locally produced olive oils in its small adjoining restaurant. Each dish is carefully selected to complement the aroma and taste of the individual olive oil. Sample an olive oil to be used with avocado, another for goat cheese, and another for lasagne. There's even an oil for tiramisu! The owner is friendly and enthusiastic. Specialty dishes from € 14.
Glacier Fenocchio
Place Rossetti
This ice cream parlour just is a must visit. Boasting 95 flavours of ice cream, which include, as well as the usual, some interesting flavours such as bounty, M & M's, and chewing gum, and some rather obscure offerings such as thyme, black olive, tourte de blette, rhubarb, and lavender. Two scoops costs € 3.50.
Artisan Boulanger
Rue de la Boucherie
Not only do we think this is the best bakery in Old Nice, it also has a very colourful, cheerful staff. Artisan makes fresh baguettes throughout the day, and most of the time, your baguette is still warm, and sometimes it is even too hot to carry in its paper bag. The pizzas, muffins, and pain au chocolat are also firm favourites of ours. The Artisan is open much longer than other bakeries; it adds a mere 10 cents onto the baguette price for them opening the "after hours" times. Fair enough we say. Tip: they also serve drinks and have a small dining section, so at just € 2 for a coffee and croissant, this is an excellent place for breakfast.
La Clé aux Pâtes
8 bis, Rue de la Boucherie
tel 04-93-85-65-86
Buy your pasta here and you will think you've bought it from Selfridges. We love the fresh basic pasta and the pesto sauce. The gnocchi is renowned for being excellent and the ravioli squares of artichokes, Provençal beef daube, ricotta, and spinach are very tasty.
La Taca d'Oli
35 Rue Pairolière
tel 04-93-80-70-93
Closed Monday
If you like La Merénda, then you will like La Taca. The chef at La Merénda clearly does. There are supportive, signed pictures by Dominic Le Stanc himself proclaiming how both restaurants are friends. Unpretentious and a little rough round the edges, La Taca serves up traditional wholesome dishes, concentrating on fish and Niçois specialities. It has been called "the kingdom of olive-oil-based cuisine".