La Merenda
4 rue Raoul Bosio (formerly rue de la Terrasse), Nice
no telephone
It’s been three years since I first visited La Merenda and the thing I love about it the most is the whole ethos of the way Dominic Le Stanc runs his restaurant. Despite his refusal to bow to modern expectations such as having no telephone (so no easy way to reserve), accepting strictly cash only, and closing on weekends, diners still flock here from all over the world and it is always difficult to grab one of the 12 tiny wooden tables with back-breaking wooden stools.
I’m often seduced by modern values of wanting both more materially and to be successful in my working life. Dominic reminds me that life isn’t supposed to be like that. He values what truly matters – earning enough to enjoy the gorgeous place he lives in and having a great love for what he does.
Dominic used to be the head chef at the Negresco’s infamous Chantecler with its airs and graces. He gave it all up to start La Merenda, which is the very antithesis of all he left behind – except for the thing that truly matters, the quality of the food he dishes up.
The menu, scribbled on a chalkboard, rarely changes, much to the delight of our web-designer and his wife. Phil and Joyce have been dining here for 15 years and tell us it’s still as good as ever. They are huge supporters of the Slow Food Movement and know their leeks from their onions.
A general description of the cuisine would be traditional peasant food. Starters for around 10 euros include coppa (Italian ham sliced paper thin), pissaladière (caramelized onion pizza) mussels, pasta with pistou (a local variation on pesto) and sardines farcies (sardines stuffed with Swiss chard).
Main dishes include Niçois tripe with tomatoes and peppers, sausages and lentils and the two specialties which really should be tried: daube (a beef and red wine stew with Provençal herbs) and stockfish (a fairly potent dish made from dried cod). Main dishes cost between 12-16 euros each.
There are usually only a couple of choices for dessert or you can have cheese instead. Drinks are water, coffee, or a bottle or glass of the local Côtes de Provence. No choice of producer, just a choice of colour, served chilled or served at room temperature.
If you want to sample Niçois cuisine at its best from one of the happiest chefs around, then La Merenda should be at the top of your “to do” list. Drop by to reserve a table when you arrive to avoid disappointment. You should also stick to a group of four or less unless you are prepared to dine separately. La Merenda is open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner. It is very near to our holiday rental apartments "Alexandre Mari", "Francois" and "Opera Saleya".
– Gayle, Nice Pebbles. If you would like to contact Gayle, you can email her at gayle@nicepebbles.com.